Boating
Seats, covers, fittings and outboards
From weekend fishing trips and family kayaking to serious boating expeditions — the full range of marine equipment for Australian waters.
Seats, covers, fittings and outboards
Deck hardware, eyes, hinges and blocks
Anchors, shackles, turnbuckles and rigging
Lures, line, hooks and rod holders
Paddleboards, kayaks, paddles and floats
Nav lights, signalling and safety gear
Answers for boaters, anglers and kayakers
Adults: chest size 80-130cm fits a Type 1 or Type 2 PFD (Personal Flotation Device) — check label for buoyancy rating in newtons. Children: sized by weight (under 22kg, 22-40kg, 40kg+). Australian Standard AS 4758 covers PFDs — Type 1 (offshore, head-up flotation), Type 2 (inshore, basic flotation), Type 3 (vest-style for activities). Always wear a properly fitted PFD — many people drown wearing PFDs that were too loose. Test fit by lifting the PFD upward — it shouldn't come above the chin.
Requirements vary by state and vessel size, but typical inshore (smooth waters) kit: PFDs for every person, paddle/oar, anchor + rope, bailer, fire extinguisher (motor over 3.5hp). Coastal (open waters) kit adds: EPIRB, flares (2 hand-held + 2 parachute), V-sheet (orange), first aid kit, marine VHF radio, navigation lights. Check your state's maritime authority (Transport for NSW, Maritime Safety QLD, etc.). Carrying the gear isn't enough — make sure it's in date and accessible.
Aluminium boats (tinnies) are lighter, easier to launch and trail, more rugged for hitting rocks/sand, and lower maintenance — ideal for fishing, beach launching, and small lakes. Fibreglass boats are heavier, smoother riding (better in chop), quieter, and offer more comfortable hulls — better for offshore, larger family boats, and serious cruising. Tinnie = practical, low-cost, fishing-focused. Fibreglass = comfort, performance, larger budgets. For most Australian recreational boating, a quality 4-5m tinnie covers 90% of needs.
Match motor power to boat capacity — every boat has a maximum horsepower rating. Generally aim for 75-100% of max for adequate performance. 4-stroke motors (Yamaha, Mercury, Suzuki, Honda) are quieter, more fuel-efficient, and now the standard. 2-stroke motors are lighter and simpler but louder, smokier, and increasingly hard to find new. Electric motors (Minn Kota, MotorGuide, Torqeedo) are quiet — ideal for fishing on freshwater. Service motors annually and flush with fresh water after every saltwater trip.
Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon — a 406MHz satellite emergency beacon for boats. Activate in a life-threatening emergency and Australian Maritime Safety Authority (AMSA) dispatches search and rescue. Required by law for any boat going beyond 2nm offshore (varies by state). Modern GPS-equipped EPIRBs cost $400-700 — same tech as a PLB but more powerful and waterproof to depth. Register your EPIRB with AMSA (free) — they need your boat details and emergency contacts. Battery life 10+ years.
Match anchor type to bottom: sand anchors (Danforth, fluke-style) hold well in sand and mud — most popular for general fishing. Reef anchors (folding 4-prong) are designed to deform and release when stuck — essential when fishing rocky bottoms. Plough anchors hold in most conditions but are heavy. Sand spikes (sand pickets driven into the seabed) work in shallow estuaries. Anchor weight rule of thumb: 1kg per metre of boat length. Always carry sufficient chain (3-5m) and rode (5-7x water depth).
Match trailer to boat — never overload a trailer. Check tyre pressures and brake function before every trip. Wheel bearings (especially on saltwater trailers) need annual inspection and grease — sealed bearings (Bearing Buddy) help but don't eliminate the need. Always tie down with quality straps at front and rear — bow strap onto the bow eye, transom straps to the trailer. Practice launching and retrieving in a quiet ramp before peak times. Rinse the trailer after every saltwater launch — salt destroys hubs and brakes.
Marine charts show water depths in metres (datum is usually Lowest Astronomical Tide), seabed type, navigation hazards, channels, and lights. Tide tables show high and low tide times for the day at standard ports — adjust for your specific location using tidal differences. Always check the tide before launching — many boat ramps are unusable at low tide, and many estuaries have shallow bars. Tide apps (Aus Tides, BOM tide app) are essential. For navigation, a chartplotter (Garmin, Lowrance, Raymarine) makes safety far easier.
For inshore fishing, a 5-7" colour fish finder/chartplotter combo (Lowrance Hook Reveal, Garmin Echomap, Humminbird Helix) is the sweet spot at $400-1,200. CHIRP sonar shows fish, structure, and bottom contour clearly. Down imaging and side imaging (additional features) reveal structure and schools in detail. GPS chartplotter integration means your unit doubles as marine navigation. For offshore boats, step up to 9-12" units with networking capability. Always mount the transducer correctly — bad mounting = bad readings.
Wash with fresh water after every saltwater trip (hull, motor, trailer). Flush the engine with fresh water for 5+ minutes after every saltwater run — salt corrodes internal cooling passages. Disconnect the battery for long-term storage; charge monthly. Cover with a quality boat cover — UV destroys vinyl, gelcoat, and plastics. Empty and dry any compartments; mould forms quickly. Drain water from the engine in cold climates to prevent freeze damage. Annual professional service is well worth the $300-500 cost.
Boat licence requirements vary by state. NSW: required for any motor boat over 5.5kW (~7.4hp) at speeds over 10 knots. VIC, QLD, WA, SA: required for any motor boat over 4.5-10hp depending on state. Marine VHF radio operator licence is required for any vessel using marine VHF — short course costs ~$150. EPIRB registration is free with AMSA. Check your state's maritime authority — penalties for unlicensed operation are significant ($500-2,000 fines).
Match rod and reel to target species and water: Light estuary spin combo (2500 reel, 7' light rod) for bream, flathead, whiting. Medium spin combo (4000 reel, 7' medium-heavy rod) for snapper, salmon, jewfish. Heavy boat combo (6000+ reel, 6.5' heavy rod) for offshore species. Overhead reels (Shimano TLD, Penn Squall) for trolling and big game. Match line class to reel and target. Quality combo brands: Shimano, Daiwa, Penn — start with $200-400 for a quality intro setup.
Sit-on-top kayaks are the only choice for fishing — easy to remount, drain naturally, and rigged with rod holders, hatches, and accessories. Length: 3.5-4m for inshore/estuary, 4-4.5m for offshore. Stability is more important than speed for fishing — wider hulls (75cm+) let you stand and cast. Pedal kayaks (Hobie Outback, Old Town Sportsman) are a game-changer — hands-free fishing with serious range. Budget $1,500-3,000 for a quality fishing kayak; $4,000-7,000 for top-end pedal models.
Each state has its own recreational fishing rules — bag limits, size minimums, gear restrictions, closed seasons, and protected species. NSW Fisheries, QLD Fisheries, VIC Fisheries publish these and update them annually. Free apps (NSW DPI Fishing, Qld Fishing 2.0) have current rules and species ID. Always carry a brag mat or measure — "I thought it was legal" is not a defence. Heavy fines ($500-5,000) apply for keeping undersize fish or exceeding bag limits. Some species require specific licences (rock lobster, abalone).
Get plenty of sleep the night before — fatigue is a major contributor. Eat lightly before leaving (carbs, no greasy food); stay hydrated. Watch the horizon rather than reading or looking at electronics. Stay outside in fresh air rather than below deck. Take medication preventively — Travelcalm, Kwells, or Stugeron 30-60 minutes before leaving the dock; Scopolamine patches for serious sufferers. Acupressure wristbands (Sea-Band) help some people. Once seasick, lie down on your back with eyes closed — staring at the horizon is a myth that doesn't work once symptoms start.