Caravan fridges fall into three main categories. Compressor fridges (12V or 240V) are the most efficient, run on lower voltage, and are essential if you free-camp away from grid power. 3-way fridges run on 12V, 240V or LPG — handy at unpowered sites where you can switch to gas. Built-in caravan-specific units from Dometic, Thetford or Vitrifrigo are designed to fit standard cabinet cutouts. Size sensibly: a 90-110L fridge suits couples, while families should look at 150L+ with a separate freezer compartment.

A caravan is a fully enclosed towable home with a hard roof, walls, and built-in fixtures (bed, kitchen, bathroom). You step in and live there. A camper trailer is a folding canvas-and-frame setup that unfolds into a tent on a trailer chassis — lighter, cheaper, more rugged for offroad, but requires setup at every stop. Hybrid campers (hard top with pop-out tent sections) sit in between. Choose a caravan for comfort and weather protection; choose a camper trailer for offroad capability and value.

Match the awning length to your caravan body length minus 30-40cm (to avoid window or hatch obstructions). For a 16ft caravan, look at a 3.5-3.8m awning. Roll-out awnings (Dometic, Carefree, Fiamma) are the standard — fast deploy, weather-resistant. Wind-out awnings with privacy screens turn the awning into a fully enclosed annexe room. Always invest in quality tie-downs and pegs — a poorly anchored awning is the most common caravan damage in storms.

Gas hot water (LPG) is fast, simple, doesn't require batteries, and works anywhere you have a gas bottle. The downside is gas consumption and the cost of bottle refills. Diesel hot water (Truma Combi, Webasto) draws from your fuel tank and is the modern premium choice — it heats both water and air (cabin heating) in one unit. Diesel is ideal for cold-climate touring or full-time caravan living. Gas is the practical, low-cost option for most weekend and holiday caravanners.

For caravans, AGM batteries are the established standard — affordable, reliable, but heavy and limited to 50% usable capacity. A 100Ah AGM gives you ~50Ah of real power. Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries are now the upgrade of choice — usable to 80-90% (so a 100Ah lithium gives you ~85Ah real), 1/3 the weight, 5-10x the cycle life. Initial cost is 2-3x AGM, but lifetime cost is lower. For free-camping and full-time touring, lithium is now the clear winner.

If you camp in summer, the answer is yes. Roof-mounted air conditioners (Dometic, Truma Aventa) cool the entire van efficiently and double as heaters in winter. Under-bed or wall-mount units are an alternative for rigs without roof clearance. Power requirement: most need 240V mains — they're not practical to run off battery alone. If you free-camp and need cooling, a quality 12V roof fan and good shade awning will handle most summer nights without an AC. Reverse-cycle units are worth the extra spend for year-round use.

Three numbers matter: your tow vehicle's maximum braked towing capacity (in the owner's manual), the caravan's ATM (Aggregate Trailer Mass) when fully loaded, and the tow ball download. As a general rule, never exceed 80% of your vehicle's max towing capacity for comfortable, safe towing. Also check the GCM (Gross Combination Mass) — the combined max weight of vehicle + trailer fully loaded. Towing at the legal limit is technically allowed but practically uncomfortable and harder on the drivetrain.

A weight distribution hitch (WDH) uses spring bars to redistribute tow ball weight forward to the front axle of your tow vehicle, levelling the rig and improving steering, braking, and stability. Required for any caravan with a tow ball weight above ~250kg or any rig that visibly sags the rear of the vehicle when hitched. Modern WDHs (Hayman Reese, Andersen) also include sway control. Highly recommended for any caravan over 1,500kg ATM. Skip it for lightweight pop-tops or camper trailers.

Levelling is critical for fridge operation (3-way fridges fail when off-level by more than 3°), comfortable sleeping, and door function. The simplest method: drive one wheel onto a levelling ramp (Andersen, Bo-Camp, ARK) until the bubble level on the A-frame reads centre. For lateral levelling, use plastic chocks or wedges. Front-to-back levelling is done with the jockey wheel after unhitching. Permanent auto-levelling systems are the premium upgrade — push a button, the van levels itself in 60 seconds.

Most caravans have fresh, grey, and (sometimes) black water tanks. Fresh tanks are filled at any potable water tap — bring your own food-safe hose. Grey water (sink + shower) drains via a tap to a portable holding container or, on free-camp sites with grey water rules, to a soakaway. Use eco-friendly biodegradable soaps. Sanitise tanks every 3 months with food-grade bleach or a commercial sanitiser. Always carry a backup water container for emergencies — a 25L plastic cube fits in most tunnel boots.

Caravan gas systems require an annual leak test by a licensed gas fitter (and a certificate for insurance). Inspect hoses for cracks or perishing every 3 months — replace any that look aged. Test the gas alarm (carbon monoxide and LPG leak detectors) monthly. Always close gas bottle valves when towing or in long-term storage. Carry a spare regulator — they're a common failure point. Most insurance policies require gas certification to be in date for any claim involving gas equipment.

7-pin plugs handle the basic functions: brake lights, indicators, tail lights, reverse light, and a single auxiliary circuit. 12-pin plugs add separate circuits for fridge power, battery charging, and an additional ground — essential for any caravan with a 12V system or fridge. Most modern caravans use 12-pin. Adapters are available, but for a permanent caravan setup, fit your tow vehicle with a 12-pin socket. Always carry a spare male plug and a multimeter for roadside diagnosis.

Caravan tyres need load index ratings that exceed your axle weight (you'll find specs on the placard). Use light truck (LT) tyres rather than passenger (P) tyres — they're rated for the constant heavy load. Replace tyres every 5-7 years regardless of tread depth — UV and ozone degrade rubber even when stationary. For offroad caravans, all-terrain (AT) tyres handle gravel and corrugations. Always check pressures before every trip — under-inflation causes the majority of caravan tyre blowouts.

If you free-camp or stay at unpowered sites, yes. A 200W rooftop panel is the realistic minimum for a couple — enough to keep a fridge and lights running indefinitely in good sun. Add a portable folding panel (120-200W) for shade-camp days when the rooftop is in the dark. Pair with a quality MPPT solar regulator (not PWM) for 30% better charging. Permanent rooftop install requires sealing the roof properly — a job worth paying a caravan service centre to do correctly.

Essentials: spare wheel + brace + jack rated for caravan weight, wheel chocks, levelling ramps, 12V multimeter, spare fuses, electrical tape, sealing tape (for hatch leaks), spare bulbs (LED tail lights and indicators), gas hose spanner, jockey wheel handle, awning rope and pegs, tyre pressure gauge, basic toolkit (sockets, screwdrivers, pliers). Highly recommended: spare gas regulator, water pump fuse, anode rod for hot water service, spare 12-pin trailer plug.

A quality coupling lock (AL-KO Safety Ball, Trigg) is the first defence — prevents theft of the entire van. Add a wheel lock (clamp-style) for layovers. Internal: fit a caravan alarm with PIR sensor and door contact. GPS tracker (e.g., Optus IoT, Spot Trace) adds insurance recovery capability. Don't leave valuables visible through windows; pull blinds when away. Park in well-lit caravan parks rather than dark roadsides. Insurance discounts often apply when you have multiple security devices fitted.

Compulsory third-party (CTP) insurance is included in your registration. Comprehensive caravan insurance is highly recommended — it covers theft, accidental damage, storm damage, contents, and on-road accident damage. Premiums depend on caravan value, where it's stored, security devices fitted, and your towing experience. Many policies require an annual gas certificate and proof of secure storage. Specialist caravan insurers (CIL, Apia, Club Marine) often beat general insurance brokers on price and coverage.

Drain all water systems — open all taps, run the pump dry, drain the hot water service. Empty grey and black tanks. Disconnect and store batteries in a cool, dry place; charge monthly. Block tyres up off the ground or rotate them every few months to prevent flat spots. Treat door and window seals with silicone-based UV protectant. Cover with a breathable caravan cover (not a tarp — tarps trap moisture). Open hatches for 30 minutes monthly to ventilate. Check for rodent activity regularly.

A full annual service (or every 10,000km, whichever comes first) is the industry standard. The service should cover wheel bearings, brake adjustment and pad inspection, suspension components, gas system pressure test, water system, electrical inspection, hatch and seal inspection, and a roof inspection for damage. Budget $400-700 for a basic annual service; $800-1,500 for a thorough service that includes brake refurbishment. Caravan-specific service centres are far better than general mechanics — caravan systems are different from car systems.

Only if it's built for it. Standard touring caravans are designed for sealed roads and well-maintained gravel — corrugations and rough tracks will rapidly damage them. Offroad-rated caravans (Bushtracker, Kedron, Trakmaster, Goldstream) feature reinforced chassis, higher ground clearance, AT tyres, independent suspension, dust sealing, and offroad couplings. Even with an offroad van, drive slowly on rough terrain, drop tyre pressures, and inspect after every leg. Never tow a standard caravan up the Cape, the Gibb, or any serious 4WD track — you'll end up walking out.